Buying a house in Italy – part 2

A few years ago we travelled around for 8 months. And traveling around includes spending time in Italy. For me, it is quintessential and one of the dream destinations, because I just love Italy. Everything Italian is better than anything else. Pronto! Food, wine, style, just anything.

We spent a week on the Aeolian Islands for hiking, and a weeklong foodtour in and around Naples, then my brother recommended a vacation home his friend just finished remodeling in a quaint little village above Lago di Garda, called Muslone. We booked it, being the Guinea pigs to check if everything is working or in need of adjustments.

A year later we booked the same vacation home again, this time sharing it with family and friends. Hiking trails right outside the village, grandiose views, relaxing silence at night, because the only street up the mountain ends there and since it has no tourist attractions, the people who come here are either hikers or tree huggers, both of which are not known for beer pong parties and drink -till-you-drop-gatherings. It is so quiet here, that you wonder why all of a sudden the blood in your ears makes noise 🤣

Muslone called our names. We fell in love with the rustic houses, ancient old cobblestone streets, we liked the simplicity of daily life, and all surrounded by trees, trees, and more trees! Did I mention lemon trees? Or olive trees??? Muslone was founded in the 16th century, it has quite a colorful history: 600 people lived here at that time, 13 bars were in town, schools, a church, everything a hardworking farmer needs. Lemon, olive oil and wine were grown, produced and sold. The location was valuable, battles were fought over it! Fast forward to now, there are 60 people in the village, mostly elderly, who hang on to the glory of the past. But age comes with the advantage of poor eyesight and bad hearing. You don’t see the wrinkles. You don’t hear the sighs, moans and groans of old age. So in your inner fantasies, Muslone is still an established trade location with a thriving future. Nowadays many houses are owned by people from other parts of Italy, from Northern and Middle Europe and used as vacation homes. There is a church, an alimentary store and … nothing else. No bars, no school, nothing. According to the recent census results, there is only 1 child under the age of 4. That’s all. The mix with the newer vacationers is what keeps the village alive. The alimentary store is busy. People need to eat!

And then we heard about a house, a rustico as it is called here, that an older couple from Germany had to give up for health reasons. At 90+ they became too old to drive over the Alpes to enjoy their vacation home, so their son stepped in and tried to sell it. As is. Which was a lot! The rustico was filled with furniture and fixtures, top to bottom – and we are speaking 3 floors – filled with books and CDs, household Schnickschnack and Nippes, somebody would need 90+ years to collect! Style wise it was like secondary Ikea look after the expiration date. When I moved out of my parent’s house at the age of 19, those were the furniture I had and had left behind a long time ago. And here they were, as if the magic circle just closed and they caught up on me – just 40 years later.

I liked the house. But I didn’t like the collection of somebody’s lives. We negotiated back and forth, we had paying conditions, they had selling dreams, so the deal never happened. Unrealistic expectations vs our somewhat too creative payment plan.

One year later, we were back. My brother Jürgen joined us on that trip, to check out that house again and 6 other objects that were for sale at that time. Our payment conditions were serious and solid by then, we were ready!

Genova: day 3

City

Ugly outskirts / Oldtown with wide Avenues and narrow – and I mean VERY narrow! – alleyways with 6 or 7 story buildings on each side, sometimes fat wooden beams squeezed in- between them / beautiful Arcades

People

In 3 days we only saw 3 overweight people (maybe it was the same guy we just saw 3 times?) / stylish dressed, wearing effortless put together elegant outfits with matching shoes, belts and purses in the same color / leather shoes because sneakers are for people 25 or younger / no bras / tattoos / silk, lots of silk (Genova is famous for its high quality silk production) / lots of school classes either going to the beach or a museum, all the kids wear the same hats 🥳 / smokers everywhere / people talk on their phone – AirPods everywhere / not many tourists

Food

Pesto and focaccia are traditional foods from Genova, delicious meals, according to Ted, coffee is served in small cups in Italy, according to me, coffee is served in big cups in the US, I found my new favorite coffee drink: Marocchino

Fresh pasta with pesto

Animals

Dogs, lots of dogs, therefore lots of dog poop 💩 that the store and cafe owners try to handle, usually with a bucket of water, pigeons, we even saw a pigeon next to a street musician (violin), moving its head with the rhythm of the music

Streetmusic

Many musicians and singers in Oldtown, a boombox for background music and off they go, a trumpet player playing Italian songs, a violinist with classical music, another trumpet playing jazz, a Ukrainian singer and 2 Italian singers – great acoustics throughout the alleyways!

Genova: day 2

We finally found the American consulate! No wonder nobody knows it, it is well hidden, almost like a rash under your armpit. No flag, no sign, no obvious security. It is a one-woman operation, charging $200 for a notarized signature.

We entered this building…
… just to find this on the wall in the lobby
3rd floor, long hallways, no signage, just numbers! No wonder nobody knows they exist!

Oh well, on another note we had fun for the rest of the day: floating through the narrow alleyways of Oldtown, staying hydrated as good as we can, eating delicious food, shopping (my favorite) and people watching (Ted’s favorite). Life is good!

Genova: day 1

A little side-trip to Genova can’t hurt, so we thought, and off we went to breath big city life for a few days!

But why Genova??? Well, I’ve never been here before. That’s one reason. And Ted happens to need an appointment with a notary at an American consulate and Milano and Venice didn’t have any appointments left. But that doesn’t sound as much fun as my spontaneous “I’ve never been there”, right? It’s a little like those influencer photos you see: an antique building in an oldtown setting, cobblestone streets, the sun is setting and drenches everything with her last glowing rays in beautiful warm colors. The perfect setting for a few shots in that gorgeous copper colored silk dress, impeccable hair and makeup, flirty poses and “we have so much fun here in Genova, don’t we?” attitude. Nobody sees the pigeon poop everywhere, the annoying dog that keeps barking with no reason, the begging people, the teenage prostitutes or the suspicious druggies lurking around. The smell in a port city on a very hot afternoon and the big city noise… nothing shows up on those gorgeous silk dress shots – of course! So here we are, “never been in Genova before”!

But we know how to make something fun out of it! No problemo!!! We pack up our little Fiat 500, fill up the gas and off we go. First go west, 2 hours to Milan, then take a left turn, another 2 hours south to Genova. The traffic here is a maze, lots of tunnels, bridges, streets are layered on top of other streets, high above the ground. That’s what you have to do when you want to avoid traffic constipation in an Oldtown that used to be the trade capitol of the western Mediterranean, where silk and spices were coming in on old sailboats, where tea and gold were stored in big warehouses. Genova reminds me of Napoli. An Oldtown where people live, where you find a cobbler and a butcher, where kids play soccer and old grandmothers walk their dogs, the only companions left in their lives. Narrow alleys with hotels, trattorias, and locals hanging around water fountains to stay cool. It is a heatwave right now and those old 7 story buildings don’t have air-conditions. All they have are thick walls, high ceilings and window shutters that usually keep you cool, but with 100 degrees and 90 % humidity, those tricks have limits. You want to be outside in those narrow alleys – maybe you can catch a little breeze…

As said before, when you have lemons, make lemonade. So Ted splurged and booked the Bristol Hotel. So here we are in our air conditioned luxury, with antique furniture, an actual water cooker and teacups (!), huge fluffy towels, and expensive smelling shampoo.

The staircase is breathtaking! And we are on the top floor that has this beautiful glass dome
A sitting area on the ground floor

My niece Stephanie, who has a fable for everything royal, would feel just like she belongs here!

We explore the city, try to find the consulate which seems to be hiding from us. Ted has the address, but there is no sign, no nothing. The address and a group of 3 or 4 police cars parking in front of the building – we thought that might be a no-brainer. But the policemen have no clue. One of them pointed out that the consulate is somewhere totally different: up the street, take a left where the street forks, another left and you’ll see it at the end of that street. So we walk a mile and there is nothing. We find a police station with a few carabinieri, hanging around and trying to stay cool like their colleagues out on the street. Consulate? Is there an American consulate? They Google the address and voila: they send us back to the same location Ted had found initially. “Grazie mille” and “buena sera” and off we go, floating back through the alleyways, stopping for a delicious dinner, still not finding the consulate…

Ted’s appointment is the next day at 3pm, so we still have time to search, call, be successful.

A sculpture in front of a museum. The building in the background is the official address for the consulate, but it is also the address of a parking garage underneath the fountain. According to the carabinieri, that address is given sometimes as the official address if it is otherwise too complicated to find (or if you want to keep it anonymous). Finding the hotel itself kept us circling around town a bit, because it is not where Google told us to go. Maybe Google should spend some time here, just because “they’ve never been here before!”

Italy Adventure (1)

A great day to go on a little trip we thought. My niece wanted to introduce her boyfriend, my brother & sister-in-law are there as well, so we planned to take the ferry across the lake from Moderna to Torri. We arrived just in the Nic of time to hop on the boat – lucky us!

From Torri to Bardolino, where they all reside is just a 20 min drive. And – as always – it’s just so nice to spend time with them! Lunch and an Aperol Spritz later, we explored Bardolino, had a very good time and got to know the new family member.

Seeing my niece be in love and him being a bit nervous at first, then more relaxed as we strolled around town was very cute 🥰

Jürgen and Ted on the husband bench inside a store. Both are well trained shoppers!

We sat down at a little bar/restaurant to resolve the thirst issue, when all of a sudden dark clouds came up…

So we rushed back to the car and got in the very moment when the storm arrived! When we arrived at the port we were told that there won’t be any ferries for the rest of the day ☹️, which means we had to drive around the lake… Not a big deal, but with this thunderstorm, it was challenging!

It took us 2 hours for ~50miles and we made it thanks to our cute little Fiat 500!

Edith

Going through a divorce is never easy. Of course the big chunk is the separation from the person you married. Another big chunk is how to handle your children, and this is never easy, no matter how old they are.

What makes a divorce so difficult is how lonely you are afterwards. Yes, you lost a husband, but you also loose many friends, friends you became closer through the marriage, friend you thought like you, no matter if you are married or not. You thought they like you for who you are, and yet, they disappear out of your life: very quietly and they leave a vacuum…

I’m not sure if there are unwritten rules about who can keep which friend, kind of like who gets the dishes with gold rim and who ends up with all the blue plates. Maybe it is the same rule like who brought the gold rims into the marriage and who brought the blue dishes? I’m not sure, the fact is that after a divorce there are many vacuums that make you feel lonely and incomplete.

16 years ago I got divorced after a 12 year long marriage. I lost many friends and I did gain many questions marks, vacuums and scars. And I learned a lot. Wisdom is a positive sounding expression, wrinkles on skin and scars on the soul is more realistic.

One of those vacuums that was created by the divorce is Edith, who was “our” friend and who ended up in the box with the gold rim dishes. Edith is a few years older than me, she is very sporty, smart, successful in her profession and good looking. I always looked up to her despite the fact that she is smaller than I. She is the only other Edith I know, except those “my grandmother’s sisters name was Edith” and of course Edith Piaf, who I love.

Edith and her late husband Ulli and we, my husband Peter and I met often on the weekends for mountain bike adventures in the Alpes, my husband and Edith were always leading, Ulli and I tried to catch up 😬. We barbecued, played games, had interesting discussions about “god and the world” as we would say in German. Ulli was always sharp and had rational opinions, Edith was more emotional and realistic.

16 years forward: Ted and I sit at a Cafe in Salò, Italy, enjoying the view of Lago di Garda, watching people stroll by, enjoying a late afternoon drink, when Edith walks by and into the same Cafe, orders an espresso and sits down. Since she doesn’t recognize me, I thought I’m mistaken. Later on I go to the restroom and when I leave the facility Edith is about to get in. “Excuse me, you look so familiar “ I say, “is your name Edith?” Big surprise on her, but still no recognition. “Edith & Ulli, Peter and I, we went mountain biking together, we used to be friends!” Then it klicks inside her brain and we try to catch up on those 16 years, which is challenging when you only have 30 min!

It was so nice to see her! Oh my goodness, we were both overwhelmed about this coincidence to run into each other, here in Italy, where both of us just came on vacation, she from Germany, I from California! I’m still shaking my head about this surprise!

Buying a house in Italy – part 1

Having a big dream, luck, patience, and a splash of humor is all you need to buy a house in Italy. Money helps too!

So here we are: If I had to write a manual on how to buy a house in Italy, my first chapter would be about the location. So my advice is to think about your musts and needs. Do you need an airport nearby? A trainstation? A ferryport? Do you have any areas you prefer where you have family or friends? Do you prefer bigger cities or rural areas? Do you have any hobbies that require water or mountains? Do you want a view, a convenient downtown location? That downtown location might come with noise, would that be ok?

Our decision was as unique as yours might be; I love love love Tuscany – of course. Who doesn’t? But I wanted to have an easy drive to Germany, where my family lives. My husband loves the mountains, hiking is his passion, so we decided to search around Lago di Garda My family spends a lot of time at that lake, so it was an easy decision. Lago di Garda is also called the most southern suburb of Munich, easy to reach over the Brennero pass, which is a main transit route north – south over the Alps. ~5 driving hours from Munich, that’s all.

Lago di Garda is the eastern most lake of the 5 glacier lakes on the south side of the Alps. When the glaciers melted after the Ice Age, they carved long narrow craters into the ground which ended up as those 5 lakes. BTW, Lake Como is one of those lakes, mostly known to Americans and most visited by Americans. Therefore it is called the American lake. Of course you can book boat tours at each lake, but only on Lake Como you can book „Hollywood Tours“! George Clooney lives here and lots of other American celebrities, so it’s no wonder that the Americans want to be where famous Americans live; even Rick Steves recommended Lake Como. For those of you who don’t know Rick Steves, he is an American travel guru with a huge following and if Rick says Lake Como is wonderful, you cannot visit Lake Como anymore, unless you want to be amongst other American travelers, eat American food and have signs and menus in English.

Our decision on Lago di Garda, where all Europeans end up vacationing, was mostly dictated by the proximity to Germany. The north – south trains go through the Brennero pass, so is the Autobahn. The nearest airports to the lake are either in Bergamo or Verona, both 1 hour away.

Lago di Garda is divided between Alto Adige (north), Venetia(east) and Lombardy(west).

Because of those borders dividing the lake, Lago di Garda’s history was quite turbulent. Venetian canon ships tried to destroy lombardian vessels. Every town along the shore had and still has a big fortress, defending intruders and invasions. Lots of battles happened here and you can still see canon holes in some of the old buildings on the waterfront.

Once you have decided a rough location, you fine tune it and limit the area to for example the western coast of Lago di Garda. the west side is very steep, no space for shopping centers, amusement parks or camp grounds. On that western side, you find lots of small mountain villages, glued on to the steep cliffs. That called our names…..

My Singer and I

When I was a little girl, my sister and I shared a room and this room hosted my moms Singer sewing machine that was neatly stored in a sewing table. The rule was that we cannot use it before we are old enough to go to school.

My middle name is „curious creativity“, which is a curse and a blessing. So here we go, waiting for my mom to leave the house, so we can sew clothes for our dolls. Not a great idea as it turned out, because I zigzag stitched right through my thumb! Adrenaline kicked in (fortunately) and I ribbed my finger out from that monster, taking the whole presser foot needle holder with it (unfortunately). ☹️

Then the pain kicked in, then the guilt, then the creativity how to hide all this mess from my mom. She still doesn’t know…..

55 years forward, my thumb still reminds me of that sewing adventure, especially when the weather changes… But I’m a loyal person and after moving out of my parents house when I was 19, one of the first things I bought was a Singer sewing machine! Not dishes or bed linens, a sewing machine. And that Singer was brought to the US shortly after our plans had changed to stay indefinitely instead of the initial 2-year contract. Can’t live without my Singer! 28 years later, I still live in the US, that exact Singer is going to travel again. Destination: Italy.

Singer at SFO

It is very interesting what a conversation starter the Singer is! From “what an interesting looking suitcase you have” to “my mom used to have a Singer just like that”. It was a fun trip! And here we are in Germany, waiting for the final part of our transition. This time it will be a car drive to Italy! 🇮🇹

Travel record

Our flight from San Luis Obispo to San Francisco was only 35 minutes long, but with a 2 hour delay – that is a record in itself, but I’m talking about our flight from San Francisco to Munich that was unusual in many ways:

Coastal fog rolling in near Cambria, CA

The flight was only 2/3 full. We had great seats with enough legroom, which was a plus, because if you have legroom you have the possibility to stretch out and sleep! I only watched one movie the entire flight, worked on a crocheted top and played some games. The rest of the time I was either sleeping or eating!

BTW eating: I think I had the best food I ever ate during a flight! It was delicious, both dinner and breakfast.

Caprese salad, Thai shrimp curry, raspberry mousse and white wine. And chocolate of course!

We arrived on time, and broke another record: it took us only 45 min to arrive at the gate, go through immigration/ passport control, grab our 2 suitcases, visit the restroom and go to the parking area where Anja and Tamara, my sister-in-law and her daughter were waiting! Then we made it to my moms house in just 45 minutes which usually takes another hour!

Waiting were my mom of course, and my brother Jürgen, who prepared a delicious „Brotzeit“ (a typical German dinner or lunch or in-between way to eat really REALLY good bred with cheese, cold cuts, butter, tomatoes, pickles, etc.) Beer or sparkling water and catching up on the latest news included. Heaven! And „home“ comes to mind. And only if you haven’t had this for several months you’ll understand…