Buying a house in Italy – part 1

Having a big dream, luck, patience, and a splash of humor is all you need to buy a house in Italy. Money helps too!

So here we are: If I had to write a manual on how to buy a house in Italy, my first chapter would be about the location. So my advice is to think about your musts and needs. Do you need an airport nearby? A trainstation? A ferryport? Do you have any areas you prefer where you have family or friends? Do you prefer bigger cities or rural areas? Do you have any hobbies that require water or mountains? Do you want a view, a convenient downtown location? That downtown location might come with noise, would that be ok?

Our decision was as unique as yours might be; I love love love Tuscany – of course. Who doesn’t? But I wanted to have an easy drive to Germany, where my family lives. My husband loves the mountains, hiking is his passion, so we decided to search around Lago di Garda My family spends a lot of time at that lake, so it was an easy decision. Lago di Garda is also called the most southern suburb of Munich, easy to reach over the Brennero pass, which is a main transit route north – south over the Alps. ~5 driving hours from Munich, that’s all.

Lago di Garda is the eastern most lake of the 5 glacier lakes on the south side of the Alps. When the glaciers melted after the Ice Age, they carved long narrow craters into the ground which ended up as those 5 lakes. BTW, Lake Como is one of those lakes, mostly known to Americans and most visited by Americans. Therefore it is called the American lake. Of course you can book boat tours at each lake, but only on Lake Como you can book „Hollywood Tours“! George Clooney lives here and lots of other American celebrities, so it’s no wonder that the Americans want to be where famous Americans live; even Rick Steves recommended Lake Como. For those of you who don’t know Rick Steves, he is an American travel guru with a huge following and if Rick says Lake Como is wonderful, you cannot visit Lake Como anymore, unless you want to be amongst other American travelers, eat American food and have signs and menus in English.

Our decision on Lago di Garda, where all Europeans end up vacationing, was mostly dictated by the proximity to Germany. The north – south trains go through the Brennero pass, so is the Autobahn. The nearest airports to the lake are either in Bergamo or Verona, both 1 hour away.

Lago di Garda is divided between Alto Adige (north), Venetia(east) and Lombardy(west).

Because of those borders dividing the lake, Lago di Garda’s history was quite turbulent. Venetian canon ships tried to destroy lombardian vessels. Every town along the shore had and still has a big fortress, defending intruders and invasions. Lots of battles happened here and you can still see canon holes in some of the old buildings on the waterfront.

Once you have decided a rough location, you fine tune it and limit the area to for example the western coast of Lago di Garda. the west side is very steep, no space for shopping centers, amusement parks or camp grounds. On that western side, you find lots of small mountain villages, glued on to the steep cliffs. That called our names…..

My Singer and I

When I was a little girl, my sister and I shared a room and this room hosted my moms Singer sewing machine that was neatly stored in a sewing table. The rule was that we cannot use it before we are old enough to go to school.

My middle name is „curious creativity“, which is a curse and a blessing. So here we go, waiting for my mom to leave the house, so we can sew clothes for our dolls. Not a great idea as it turned out, because I zigzag stitched right through my thumb! Adrenaline kicked in (fortunately) and I ribbed my finger out from that monster, taking the whole presser foot needle holder with it (unfortunately). ☹️

Then the pain kicked in, then the guilt, then the creativity how to hide all this mess from my mom. She still doesn’t know…..

55 years forward, my thumb still reminds me of that sewing adventure, especially when the weather changes… But I’m a loyal person and after moving out of my parents house when I was 19, one of the first things I bought was a Singer sewing machine! Not dishes or bed linens, a sewing machine. And that Singer was brought to the US shortly after our plans had changed to stay indefinitely instead of the initial 2-year contract. Can’t live without my Singer! 28 years later, I still live in the US, that exact Singer is going to travel again. Destination: Italy.

Singer at SFO

It is very interesting what a conversation starter the Singer is! From “what an interesting looking suitcase you have” to “my mom used to have a Singer just like that”. It was a fun trip! And here we are in Germany, waiting for the final part of our transition. This time it will be a car drive to Italy! 🇮🇹

Travel record

Our flight from San Luis Obispo to San Francisco was only 35 minutes long, but with a 2 hour delay – that is a record in itself, but I’m talking about our flight from San Francisco to Munich that was unusual in many ways:

Coastal fog rolling in near Cambria, CA

The flight was only 2/3 full. We had great seats with enough legroom, which was a plus, because if you have legroom you have the possibility to stretch out and sleep! I only watched one movie the entire flight, worked on a crocheted top and played some games. The rest of the time I was either sleeping or eating!

BTW eating: I think I had the best food I ever ate during a flight! It was delicious, both dinner and breakfast.

Caprese salad, Thai shrimp curry, raspberry mousse and white wine. And chocolate of course!

We arrived on time, and broke another record: it took us only 45 min to arrive at the gate, go through immigration/ passport control, grab our 2 suitcases, visit the restroom and go to the parking area where Anja and Tamara, my sister-in-law and her daughter were waiting! Then we made it to my moms house in just 45 minutes which usually takes another hour!

Waiting were my mom of course, and my brother Jürgen, who prepared a delicious „Brotzeit“ (a typical German dinner or lunch or in-between way to eat really REALLY good bred with cheese, cold cuts, butter, tomatoes, pickles, etc.) Beer or sparkling water and catching up on the latest news included. Heaven! And „home“ comes to mind. And only if you haven’t had this for several months you’ll understand…

And here we go again – a very new chapter of Let‘s Go!

My dream of owning a house in Italy always seemed out of reach. Back when I lived in Munich, being a single mom of two, money was tight on each end. Or now that I live in California, Italy just seems so very far away; money is not tight anymore and the kids are not kids anymore.

What made things change is my attitude towards life: I don’t give a s—- anymore what people think, what people expect me to do, I don’t care if it is a great idea or a crazy one, I want to live my life as if it is the only one I got. 😇

And it is the only one I got and each day could be the last one, so why not buy a house in Italy? Why not fulfill a dream that you only see in movies?

So we did it: we fell in love, we made it work, and we’re on a flight over there as we speak. What also comes in handy is getting married late in life: you marry a soulmate. So that’s what I did: I married a man who likes to travel, who is flexible, curious, and not afraid of adventures. Because that’s what you need if you want to buy property abroad.

It was not very difficult to convince Ted, my hubby of almost 7 years, to sell a property in Germany and find a house in Italy.

Details to come… We have to check in to our flight now!

Arezzo

Every month Arezzo has an antique market. So we had to check it out! And dice Ted had to stay home and rest, and Tom wanted to go on a hike, Leslie and I took off. A 1 hour drive, a broken side mirror later, we arrived and found free parking as a reward for the broken mirror.

The antique market is all over the old town, and you can find everything and anything you need, you don’t need, you always wanted and you never ever thought anybody would ever want. So all in all, there is something for everybody!

I found a nice basket that called my name. And Leslie’s bag was not filled yet…

Arezzo also has a lot of cute stores and bars, one more appealing than the other

Spoleto

Spoleto, another beautiful hillside town, a 1.5 hour drive from Borgo di Vaglio. We came to attend and eat our way through the Italian dessert festival, and we were pleasantly surprised by its beauty and the big surprise inside the mountain.

Outside first: cute little stores, fantastic views, steep up and up walking!

And once we were all the way at the top, we discovered the secret inside the hill: a system of elevators leading to a tunnel with escalators, all the way down to the bottom of the hill. Fantastic!

Borgo di Vagli or the American dream of a Tuscan village

Borgo di Vagli is a remote village. A very VERY remote village, that consists of 21 fractional shared units. That means, there are 100 owners who share 21 units. It’s not a timeshare where you only own time somewhere, you actually own a fraction of a unit. You can choose your fraction, 2/3, 1/10, 1/12, or whatever. Everytime you come here, you can be in a different unit, or always the same. Interesting concept!

Our friends Leslie & Tom in front of the restaurant. Our unit is right above it with it’s entrance just around the corner

The village has a swimming pool and a restaurant and a gorgeous setting in the middle of nowhere. In fact, the last 2 km are on a funky, narrow, scary dirt road, where you always wish there is nobody coming your way. Backing up is 😵‍💫, driving at night is 😬, driving with a car with bad headlights is 😖! But so far so good! A few people we’ve met here choose to hire a chauffeur; they are too scared of driving themselves. But I’m a German trained driver and I like roads like that! Even at night 😎

I love this village; the olive harvest is in full swing, several of the “owners” are working with the farmers to rake and collect the olives – 🫒 to be made to olive oil at a mill nearby. Those “owners” are usually the ones from Norway or Canada, where olive trees are not to be found, so they go crazy about it!

The views from here are gorgeous, it is quiet, peaceful and relaxing!

The only hesitation I have is the inside of our unit. The stairs are very steep and each step is very high! It is dark inside, and the lighting is dim and yellow. Unfortunately our unit doesn’t have any outside area to sit; that’s the biggest disadvantage. But we are right above the restaurant and very close to the reception area!

And this inside is what I call the American dream. Americans love „old“, anything that’s older than 100 years creates a sparkle in their eyes. Is it a house built in 1890 or a piece of furniture, Americans are in awe of things that are older than themself.

In Europe, we live with history. Growing up in a city that was founded in the year 900 and being surrounded by history on a daily basis is more an arrangement than an obsession.

Borgo di Vagli‘s first buildings were made from stones of an old watchtower from the 14th century. The watchtower wasn’t needed anymore because the reign of the Medici (15th-18th century) brought a more peaceful life to the region. People settled down, they built homesteads and needed building materials. That’s how Borgo di Vagli was built.

Nobody in Italy or in Europe in general would choose to live like that anymore, unless they cannot afford it. Italians love modern design, they are masters in the symbiosis between old and modern. They accept the old, but they do love modern! And thank god we moved on, made our lives more comfortable and healthier. We build stairs that are even and not life threatening. Our heating systems are easy to use and do not require chopped wood. The houses at Borgo are somewhat upgraded: they have smoke detectors that immediately start peeping once you start a fire, but even after 3 days and 855 km away, everything smells like smoke, despite being in a separate room with the doors closed.

Btw doors / privacy / peace of mind: not all the doors are meant to give you privacy or peace of mind. The walls upstairs are 2.5 meters high, the ceiling is almost 5 meters high. And next to the bedroom is the bathroom. So if someone needs light in the hallway or bathroom, it is shared with everybody. So is any noise or smell. Did I mention the bathroom walls are also just 2.5 meters high?

I love old, but I feel very fortunate to live in the 21st century. I like my stairs even, I like a kitchen sink that drains the water and I really like privacy in the bathroom.

But as mentioned before, Americans are obsessed with history. They pay an arm and a leg to play medieval life for a few weeks a year. And it’s not cheap! If my calculations are correct, one fraction (1/10) is ~€100k, so each unit is worth €1million! And the maintenance cost €4000/year for the 1 month you can use it.

So it’s no surprise that almost all the owners at Borgo are Americans or Canadians (and one couple from Norway).

Cortona

If you haven’t read or watched “Under the Tuscan Sun”, you might not know Cortona. A typical hillside town, beautiful, steep, adorable! The American woman who visits Tuscany after a mayor disappointment back home, spontaneously buys a house in Cortona, and falls in love with the town, an Italian ragazzo and life in Italy. That’s very easy to experience here. Even the gardener mowing the lawn here at Borgo di Vagli is a ragazzo, charm as can be, movie star potential and the age and testosterone of a picture perfect Italien lover.

We walked around Cortona as much as Ted knee allowed, we had a delicious lunch at Quanto Basta at Piazza Garibaldi and we – I – did some shopping damage in a few cute boutiques and stores in the old town.

We happened to be in Cortona on Monday and it seemed to be laundry day…

Another collection grabbed me while strolling around: mailboxes!

But Cortona is not just a town of laundry and mailboxes, it is – as said before – a town you can easily fall in love with…

The bees’ knees – or: Ted overhiked

It all started with this:

And then there were several days of suffering, until we took a day off vacation and spent 9 hour at the Ospitale Santa Catarina in Cortona.

Paracetamol and a moist dressing with medication (5-6 days), rest for a week and some pain drops were ordered. The dressing fell off after 3 days, so we bought a stretchy brace. And here he is, heroic conqueror of the bees’ knees: